Disassembly:

1. Raise car and support on jack stands or overhead lift.

2. Clean heavy grime and fluid contaminants from all work surfaces on the car.

3. Disconnect negative battery terminal.

4. Remove exhaust intermediate pipes and front mufflers.

5. Drain fluid from current transmission.

6. Remove heat shield keeping shims intact.

7. Remove transmission cooling lines at radiator and transmission.

8. Plug cooling line outlets with fittings provided in Pack P.

9. Remove Transmission Cross Member and Mount Assy. (3 pieces)

10. Remove prop shaft (driveshaft) by unbolting at front and rear.

11. Unbolt starter and secure with wire or remove and set aside.

12. Remove transmission using the following steps:

• Lower engine until fan blade comes close to touching shroud
• Support transmission using a transmission jack
• Remove lower dust cover to access torque converter
• Remove oil filter
• Remove torque converter bolt access plug from rear flange of engine
• Unbolt 6 torque converter fasteners
• Separate torque converter from flex plate
• Unbolt transmission – this is most easily done with a two foot sock extension and a wobble socket. Tape wrapped around the wobble socket to limit travel will help.
• Unplug speedometer lead (if equipped) and kick-down lead
• Unbolt shifter cable from transmission
• Remove torque converter
• Remove flexplate assembly
• Remove console "ski slope"

• Unplug wiring harness inside console. Note orientation of wires for reinstallation later using a diagram or digital photo.
• Remove shifter mechanism
• Unplug wiring from shifter-
• Reverse- round component at side
• Neutral limit switch-at inner front of shifter
• Cruise control limit switch-at outer front of shifter

• Unbolt fiber optic mounting bracket from shifter.
• Remove shifter completely from console, including the lower support bracket. You will need to expose the floor for cutting in this area.
• Attach string to upper part of shifter cable then pull the cable out from the underside of the car. A small cover in the tunnel can be loosened to ease out cable. The string will remain in the chassis and will be used to pull the new wiring harness into the car.

Pedal Box Removal:

• Remove pedal side air cleaner cover and element.
• Disconnect master cylinder and push aside. On most cars you will not need to disconnect the brake lines.
• Disconnect ABS pump (when equipped)
• Remove cruise control override switch from side of pedal box (non-ABS cars only) and set aside for reinstallation.
• Unbolt four fasteners that hold brake booster to pedal box.
• Remove reservoir bracket for modification and reinstallation later.
• Remove pedal box at firewall by unscrewing fasteners at all four corners of the assembly.

• Remove cruise control limit switch wiring harness and cruise control limit switch from pedal box. (non-ABS cars only) This will be used during reassembly.
• Remove pedal box (this must be returned as a core).

Installation of New Transmission:

Note: All fasteners, unless otherwise noted, should be installed using two drops of medium Threadlocker (blue).

Floor Tunnel Modification

• Measure and mark the tunnel at 22-5/8" from the back of the block at the bell housing mounting surface. Make sure the mark is located in the center of the tunnel. The mark may intersect a welded in bolt in the tunnel.
• 
• Place the lower shift boot retainer in the tunnel, aligning the front edge with the mark you made in step one. Make sure the retainer is centered in the tunnel
• Using a metal scribe, etch around the inside edge of the retainer, keeping the scribe vertical. DO NOT SCRIBE AT AN ANGLE. This will cause your hole to be too large.
• 
• Move to the inside of the car and, using zip ties and or wire, push all wiring and duct work away from the cutting area.

• Using a 3/8" drill bit, make 8 holes corresponding to the corners of your scribed mark. These pilot holes will provide a start for cutting out the shift hole.
• 
• Move to the inside of the car. Using holes as a guide, clear away any carpet or tunnel insulation that may interfere with your cut.

• Cut along the scribed line using an electric or pneumatic metal cutting tool. You must cut this accurately along the line in order to provide shifter clearance and leave enough metal for screwing retainer plate to the floor. Take your time and use good lighting while performing this task. You cannot uncut metal!
• 
• Using a metal file or pneumatic wheel, clean edges of hole, concentrating on the upper edge of hole.
• Place the lower boot retainer inside the car and secure around hole with small c-clamps. Using a 9/64" drill bit, drill vertical holes through the pilot hole in the retainer and down through the tunnel. Remove retainer.
• Using rubber cement, attach the lower boot to the lower boot retainer, making sure to line up screw holes. The hole in the boot must be in the forward position in the car.
• Place the boot and retainer over the hole and, using Pack M, fasten the assembly to the floor. Ground the grounding strap from inside the console using the closest available screw.
• From underneath the car, use black RTV or Body Seam Sealer to seal boot to tunnel. Once cured this will form a permanent weather seal between the boot and the tunnel.
• Attach wiring harness to string and pull through tunnel into console area.
• Secure tunnel insulation to tunnel, concentrating on area above bell housing using spray adhesive.

• Using a wire brush and solvent or WD-40 clean the torque converter relief in back of crank. Blow out any remaining debris from the crank hub.
• Place the pilot bearing lightly in the torque converter relief and using an oversize socket approximately the same diameter as outer race of the pilot bearing as a driver, use a hammer to set bushing in relief. Make sure the bushing bottoms out in the relief and is square to the crank.

• Clean surface of flywheel with a light solvent based cleaning agent.
• Lightly lubricate crank hub mating surface.
• Place flywheel lightly on crank hub and rotate until all bolt holes line up.
• Lightly tap surface of flywheel with a dead blow or rubber mallet until fully seated.

• Set anti-loosening plate on flywheel hub and thread in all bolts by hand until snug. You can re-use original anti-loosening plate if it was not damaged in removal. If damaged, source a new plate from your Jaguar authorized dealer or parts specialist. DO NOT INSTALL FLEXPLATE HUB SPACER.

• Using a torque wrench and starting with the top left bolt, torque in a cross pattern to 40 lb-ft.

• Starting again at the top right, final torque all bolts to 60 lb-ft. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. You should feel a slight stretch in the threads when fully tight.

• While your bell housing is a precision CNC machined casting, the combination of inaccuracies in dowel pin placement on the back of the block and slight variations in bell machining may cause your bell housing to be out of center with the crank. You will find separate instructions for bell housing run-out measurement and correction in your paperwork. It is recommended that you follow these instructions in order to verify the accuracy of the bell housing to block relationship.

• Remove clutch kit from box and inspect all clutch components. Wipe down pressure plate friction surface with a solvent based parts cleaner.
• Using the provided alignment tool, stack the clutch and pressure plate, insert alignment tool and lift assembly to flywheel.
• Line up pressure plate bolt holes and thread in pressure plate bolts (Pack F) finger tight.
• Working in a star pattern, torque bolts to 20 lb-ft. Beginning again and working in the same star pattern final torque to 35 lb-ft.
• Remove alignment tool.
• Lubricate clutch spline center with Anti-Seize.

• Loosely place the bell housing on the back of the block, and snug with two bolts. Using a depth measuring caliper, measure the distance from the highest point on the clutch pressure plate fingers to the back of the bell housing where it mates to the bell.
• Remove the bell housing and fasten it to the transmission using Pack D.
• Using this measurement, follow the separate hydraulic slave cylinder instructions to fasten and space slave cylinder on transmission.

• Fasten isolator mount to transmission using Pack R and torque to 35 lb-ft.

• From underneath the car, fasten spade connector end of wiring harness to the string that you fished through the tunnel cover when removing the automatic linkage cable. Wrap with smooth tape. Gently pull string and harness into car and thread into console area. This harness will be connected in a later step.
• If you loosened the cover plate screws for the wiring harness pass through, re-tighten now using small pliers.

• Remove
• Back starter nose away to avoid interference with bell.
• Apply Never Seize to input shaft splines.
• Tilt engine down in the rear as much as possible, using a post jack for support. If no jack is available, place a small block of wood at the front of the engine to keep it from damaging components around radiator.
• Using a transmission jack or at least two people, lift transmission and rotate counterclockwise approximately 1/8 of a turn. Lower rear of transmission and place the input shaft into the clutch center.
• Rotate transmission to level.
• Gently slide the input shaft into the pilot bushing. DO NOT FORCE SHAFT INTO BUSHING. The input shaft can do permanent damage if smashed into pilot bushing. This step should be taken with caution.

• Once the transmission is fully engaged, secure the bell housing to the block using Pack A and Pack C. Using Pack Q install the stock bell housing dust cover. On cars not equipped with a crank sensor a small gap will be left between the bell and the cover.

• Remove large rubber isolator from stock cross member mounting plate.
• Secure new cross member to stock cross member mount plate using four bolts in Pack K.
• 
• Secure isolator to transmission using nuts and washers in Pack R.
• Using stock fasteners replace transmission support into chassis.
• Secure cross member assembly to isolator using fasteners in Pack S.
• Reinstall factory heat shield.

• Remove the square head filler bolt located on the side of the main case about half-way up.
• Using a hand operated fluid pump, install 2 quarts of GM Synchromesh (part# 12345349) found at any GM dealership.

• Install an additional ½ to ¾ of a quart of fluid. The fluid level should be no more than 1/8" from the bottom of the filler hole when transmission is level. You can easily test this by placing your small finger in the hole to the first knuckle. You should be able to feel the fluid by bending your finger.
• Replace the plug.
• Store extra Synchromesh in an airtight container in a dry environment to prevent water absorption. Improperly stored fluid should be discarded.

• Coat all electrical contacts with a film of dielectric silicon paste.
• Plug back up light wiring harness onto black switch on main case. A rubber mallet can be lightly used to secure.
• Coat neutral safety switch threads with Teflon thread sealer and screw neutral safety switch into threaded hole at rear of tail housing. Tighten using 22mm wrench.

• Remove original speedometer cable, being careful to not routing for new cable.
• Thread new cable to back of gauge and fasten as original.
• Following original route, thread cable to mechanical speedometer output on tailhousing.
• Remove rubber plug from mechanical speedometer drive on lower tailhousing.
• Apply small amount of oil to o-ring seal and insert transducer into hole. Secure with bolt and washer (Pack O).

• Remove rubber plug from mechanical speedometer drive on lower tailhousing.
• Apply small amount of oil to o-ring seal and insert transducer into hole. Secure with bolt and washer (Pack O).
• Plug the new transducer into the factory speedometer harness.

• Set starter into place and attach with bolts and washers in Pack B.
• Tighten to 35-40 lb-ft.

• Non-ABS cars modify brake reservoir bracket using photograph as a guide.
• 
• Remove securing nuts on master cylinder flange and lift master cylinder clear of securing studs. Install modified reservoir bracket on pedal box and secure.
• Replace master cylinder as shipped.
• Reinstall cruise control override switch.
• Cut out a new pedal box gasket using gasket material.
• Lower pedal assembly through firewall hole, grasping both pedals and squeezing together for clearance. This will help clear the hole and the brake switch. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DAMAGE BRAKE SWITCH WHEN INSERTING PEDALS.
• Fasten pedal box with factory fasteners. Reattach booster, abs pump and brake master cylinder. Reattach brake reservoir to original bracket.
• Feed hydraulic line up from bell housing area and secure to swivel fitting on clutch master cylinder. MAKE SURE THE JAM NUT ON THIS FITTING IS TIGHTENED ONCE FITTING IS FACING CORRECT DIRECTION.

• With small hose clamps secure black hydraulic reservoir tubing to nipple on clutch master cylinder and to clutch reservoir base.
• Plug in harness for cruise control override switch (non-ABS cars only).
• Replace air box element and cover.
• Install pedal pads.

Bleeding Hydraulic System:

• Ensure that the bleeder line is open and that a catch pan is placed under the bleeder line.
• Hold clutch reservoir above master cylinder and fill system with DOT4 or DOT 4 High Temp Brake Fluid. Reservoir must remain above system during bleeding process.

• Once fluid begins to drip from bleeder line, close bleeder nipple.

• If using a hand vacuum pump or a compressor driven vacuula, attach to bleeder at this time. Open bleeder valve and pull a slow draw on system. Making sure that the reservoir does not run dry, pull fluid through the system until a steady flow of fluid exists in the line with no air bubbles.

• With bleeder line closed, push clutch pedal to the floor and hold. Open bleeder line and allow air and fluid to pass into a catch pan. Close bleeder line.
• Repeat until a steady flow of fluid exists with no air being expelled. At this point you should feel resistance from the clutch releasing, and the pedal should return to the home position on its own.

• Remove rubber bung from rear seal of transmission using a rag for grip. Using pliers on difficult plugs is fine, however you should be very careful not to damage the rear seal.

• Lubricate driveshaft slip yoke inside and out with a light oil or Synchromesh transmission lubricant.
• Slip shaft into seal, keeping the slip yoke horizontal. Be careful not to damage the rear seal.
• Raise rear portion of driveshaft and bolt the driveshaft flange to the differential flange.
• When installed there should be approximately 1" of machined slip yoke showing. If this varies by more than ½" please call a The Driven Man representative for assistance.

• Re-installation is the reverse of removal. Replace original exhaust system or install your The Driven Man stainless steel Super60x performance exhaust system at this time.

• Locate your reverse light wiring (usually green) in the console area. Connect two male spade connectors on TDM wiring harness to female reverse light plug. Wrap with high quality electrical tape. This is a non-polar connection. Either wire can be placed on either side of harness.
• Locate your neutral safety wiring (usually black) in the console area. Connect two male spade connectors on TDM wiring harness to female neutral safety plug. Wrap with high quality electrical tape. This is a non-polar connection. Either wire can be placed on either side of harness.
• Using wire ties, secure any loose wiring harness and replace all wiring and ductwork to factory positions.

• Attach shifter handle using hardware already threaded into the transmission stub using a small amount of thread locker.

• Using supplied upper boot retainer, carefully set over console opening and mark perimeter holes for drilling. Drill holes with 1/8" diameter bit. (These holes are concealed by boot installation)
• Install retainer to boot, set over hole and tuck all leather through hole. While holding retainer down from inside of hole, pull leather into hole and arrange as needed to achieve uniform appearance around perimeter of boot without excessive stretch or causing wrinkles at retainer.
• Using a small punch, leave a witness mark in the leather at each hole.
• Place screws in Pack N through holes.
• Remove boot from console opening. Using a small hole punch, align holes 1-by-1 and install bolts from INSIDE of boot. Attach nuts from Pack N to slightly over snug.

• Test fit the finisher back on console, sliding boot over shift handle. The boot will naturally settle on swell in handle. This will keep the boot from falling or bunching.
• Remove finisher and apply a bead of 3M Super Tack or General adhesive to the top of the swell on the shift handle.
• Replace console finisher, making sure to align boot correctly.
• Slide knob retaining nut down over top of handle
• Lightly grease top of shift handle and slide on shift knob, orienting with a twisting motion. Once in position, tighten three set screws at bottom of knob. The complete assembly should be seamless, with none of the shift lever showing.
• Reconnect all switches.
• Reattach finisher to console.
• Install knob set screws to maintain knob orientation.

• Reconnect battery.
• Lower vehicle and apply wheel chocks. Engage parking brake.

• Turn key to on position and note any abnormalities. All warning and function lights should operate as before.
• Start vehicle with the clutch and brake pedal engaged.
• Inspect car for abnormalities at idle.
• Rev engine to 3500rpm and note any vibration or noise. Severe vibration is sometimes caused by contact between the exhaust and the driveline or shifter hole clearance to the shift mechanism. Correct these abnormalities before driving.
• Test vehicle in 1^st and Reverse. Engagement should be smooth.

• Once the previous steps have been taken you are ready for the open road. Test at various speeds with the radio silent.

1. Check for system leaks occasionally, especially after installation. The most common issue is at the rear seal, where damage can result from misalignment of the yoke at installation. Call us if you experience any fluid leaks.
2. Check fluid level periodically by removing filler plug (square plug midway up the side of the case) and checking that the fluid is no more than 1/8" from the level of the bottom of the hole. You should be able to insert your small finger to the first knuckle, bend your finger and touch the fluid.
3. Your new transmission features quiet, helical cut gears. While some gear noise is possible in lower gears, excessive noise or vibration should be reported immediately to The Driven Man.

• Fluid Changes should occur every 2-years or 24,000 miles. Even if you do not operate your car often, condensation in the main case can cause the fluid new need renewal. Use GM Synchromesh whenever refilling case.
• Where equipped, check universal joint grease fittings at each fluid change interval.

• Body to transmission interference at shift hole or bell housing.
• Poorly tightened bell housing bolts at any position.
• Heavy particulate suspended in fluid.

• Check all connections at transmission mount and cross member bracket.
• Check for cracks or tears in isolator mount.
• Check slip yoke engagement. You should have about 1" of machined slip yoke surface showing when car is at rest on all four tires.
• Check suspension bushings at front and rear. Loose suspension components can cause excessive prop shaft movement and may cause the slip yoke to hit the transmission. Polyurethane replacement bushings are available from The Driven Man.

• Hydraulic- make sure that all fittings are tightened properly, paying special attention to nipple at bleeder line.
• Transmission- check output to yoke engagement seal for weepage. Also check speedometer output area. These are the two main areas where problems may occur. These problems are simple to repair. Call 931.646.4836 for help.

1. The hydraulic system has air trapped inside that is preventing the system from completely disengaging the clutch. Bleed by using a hand vacuum or compressor operated vacuula to draw out trapped air through bleeder.
2. The carpet or other obstruction is keeping the clutch from fully engaging the master cylinder rod. To correct, detach the rod end from the pedal, turn counterclockwise to raise pedal engagement and replace rod end. Only a turn or two will make a large difference in the pedal height. Do not over adjust.